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Climbing Urus – Ishinca – Tocllaraju – Chopicalqui – Huascaran Mountains

Duration: 19 Days / 18 Nights

+ Program

  • Place: Cordillera Blanca
  • Route: Ishinca Valley/ Chopicalqui / Huascaran
  • Prefered time: May September
  • Start climbing: Huaraz – Ancash – Peru
  • Place to visit: Huascaran National Park

Peaks Maximum height Difficulty Length Ration client per guide
Urus 5495 m
18,023 feet
Not that hard
19D/18N 3 to 1
Ishinca 5530 m
18,138 feet
Not that hard
" " 3 to 1
Tocllaraju 6034 m
19,791 feet
Hard D " " 2 to 1
Chopicalqui 6354 m
20,841.12 feet
Fairly hard
(= AD+)
" " 2 to 1
Huascaran 6768 m
22,199.04 feet
Fairly hard
(= AD)
" " 2 to 1

Day 1: Huaraz – Pashpa Village – Ishinca Base Camp at (4350m)/14,268 feet.

We drive from Huaraz toward the north, as soon as we reach Puente mullaca we turn off to the right toward east driving on dirt road until Collon or Pashpa villages, where we will meet with or mountain crew as: donkey drivers and donkeys, while they load our climbing gear on donkeys back we walk up along ishinca valley through the quenual trees until base camp. Overnight at ishinca base camp

Day 2: Base Camp – Attempt Summit Urus at (5495m)/18,023 feet – Base Camp

First summit day; we normally leave early from base camp on steep path, which take us until the glacier edge, from it we rope up until reach the summit, when the sun is rising we enjoy taking the most marvelous pictures around us, then we retrace on the same route up until base camp. Overnight at ishinca base camp

Day 3: Base Camp – Attempt Summit Ishinca at (5530m)/18,138.4 feet – Base Camp

Second summit day; We start early, beginning our walk in the dark on the clear way until lake Ishinca, from it we chose to climb on the west ridge or on the north ridge either are wonderful, on the glacier we climb upon snow and ice until the summit, on the top we will enjoy taking one of the most spectacular pictures, after that, we retrace on the same route up or traverse the summit, both options take to get at the base camp. Overnight at ishinca base camp

Day 4: Rest Day at Ishinca Base Camp

This day we can spend all day resting at our campsite for recovering energy and shape after climbing two peaks enjoying the most astonishing views around us, the view is truly awesome with majestic beauty mountain views.

The second option is to make a short hike to Lake Tocllacocha close out camp site, where we will have the most breath-taking view surrounded by huge Andean peaks. Overnight at ishinca base camp

Day 5: Base Camp – Moraine Camp of Tocllaraju (5000m)/16,400 feet.

This day we will move from base camp to moraine camp, the path is much significant steep until moraine camp at 5000 meters (16,400 feet), we generally climb up with porters support, who will load our group climbing gear until moraine campsite, such as: tents, stoves, foods and hardware. Overnight at moraine camp of tocllaraju

Day 6: Moraine Camp – Attempt Summit Tocllaraju at (6034m)/19,778 feet – Moraine Camp – Base Camp.

Summit day; we normally leave early, we will climb on the west face until reach the neck from it we follow climbing on the north ridge until the summit, the top is surrounded by several smaller peaks, and then we retrace on the same route up until moraine camp – base camp. Overnight ishinca base camp

Day 7: Ishinca Base Camp – Pashpa – Huaraz.

On our last day after our breakfast we walk down along ishinca valley until Pashpa village, where our private transportation awaits us to back to huaraz.

Day 8: Rest Day in – Huaraz – Hotel.

Chopicallqui Climbing; This impressive peak Chopicalqui is located between the Huascaran Sur and Huascaran north it is known a beautiful and amazing snow shelf, known as the “Mushroom”, it is ideal for a first experience of high altitude climbing in cordillera Blanca, although require physically demanding, and technical skills to climbing, it is surrounded by huge summits.

Day 9: Huaraz – Curve Chopicalqui – Moraine Camp (4900m)/16,072 feet.

We drive from Huaraz with our private transportation to the north of callejon de huaylas Valley passing on several towns until Yungay town, from it the road winds up toward the east on dirt road, after control of huascaran national park the road entrance in narrow llanganuco valley, where are located two beautiful lakes Chinancocha & Orconcocha with turquoise waters, we follow driving until chopicallqui big switchback, from where we are going to load up our gear and prepare for the walk up to Moraine Camp With porter support. Overnight at moraine camp

Day 10: Moraine Camp – High Camp (5300m)/17,384 feet.

On this day we climb up on the loose rocky until the beginning of glacier as soon as we reach the glacier, then we rope up and follow climbing up by easy steep slopes until reach the high camp on the southwest ridge. Overnight at high camp

Day 11: High Camp – Intent Summit Chopicalqui (6354 m)/20,841 feet – Moraine Camp

Summit day, this day we will start climbing up very early on steep slopes, there are some sections, where we need to use two ice axes to climbing. From the summit we will be able to take the most magnificent pictures around us, and then we retrace on the same route until high camp – moraine camp or base camp. Last night camp at moraine or base camp.

Day 12: Moraine Camp – Base Camp – Chopicalqui Curve – Huaraz

On this day we walk down until big chopicallqui curve, where our private transportation is waiting us to back Huaraz.

Day 13: Rest Day in Huaraz – Hotel.

Climbing Huascaran; Huascaran is the 4th highest peak in the Western Hemisphere and the highest peak in Peru. Just only accessible, for climbers, who has a high fitness, good acclimatization, and considerable climbing skills on snow and ice with significant experience walking with crampons

Day 14: Huaraz – Musho – Huascaran Base Camp at (4200m)/13,776 feet.

We drive from Huaraz to Musho village, there we meet with our donkeys and donkeys drivers, who are load our climbing year until base camp, walk up toward the base camp, through eucaliptus forest, until reach the great grass plateau, where is the camping spot. Overnight at base camp

Day 15: Base Camp – High Camp I at (5300m)/17,384 feet – on the Glacier

On this day is to move to high Camp, which is located on the glacier, we walk upon scramble rocks path until edge the glacier, and from it we rope up and walk on glacier until reach the high crossing several crevasses and snow bridges until get to the high camp. Overnight at high camp I

Day 16: High Camp I – High Camp II or Garganta (6000m)/19,680 feet.

Today is a challenging day, because we will climb up on serious ice steeps until reach garganta or high camp II, which is lies between Huascaran Sur and Norte peak on the west side, the canaleta is the most difficult part on this day, because the snow and ice change year to year, crossing the crevasses. Overnight at high camp II

Day 17: Camp II – Attempt Huascaran South Summit (6768m)/22,199 feet – Camp II.

Summit day, it is the most important day because our goal is reaches the top. However it is long day climbing, we climb up on steep slopes just below the south summit, then we cross to the right until the seracs, after it we follow climbing until reach the summit, over it we will be really awarded to enjoy the most spectacular view around it, then we retrace on the same route up until high camp II. Overnight high at camp II

Day 18: High Camp II – High Camp I – Base Camp.

After our breakfast we will pack our climbing gear, and then we retrace on the same rote up until Base Camp. Overnight camp at base camp

Day 19: Base Camp – Musho – Huaraz

On this day we walk down until Musho village, where our private transport is waiting us to back to Huaraz

+ Price

N° Participants Climb cost with Mountain guide
01 Person USD $ 0000 per participant
02 Persons USD $ 0000 per participant

+ Includes

What's included in the cost

What doesn't included in the cost

+ Equipment

✓ Mountain to by equipament

✓ We have equipament to rent

✓ We by all mountain equipament


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Get out of the routine and come and enjoy the best of the white mountain range
Ir Arriba

Certified Mountain Guide
Tour operador en Perú
Av. Interoceanica S/N Barrio de Nueva Florida - Huaraz - Ancash - Perú

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