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SPEED CLIMBING RECORD TO ALPAMAYO AND QUITARAJU MOUNTAINS


The cordillera Blanca has countless mountains and glaciers, most of them over 5000 meters, in September 2005, the world’s most beautiful mountain of 5947 meters “Alpamayo” and “Quitaraju” mountain of 6036 meters; were climbed in a record time less than 32 hours, usually this expedition lasts one week, this great feat was accomplished by the high mountain guide Daniel Milla Lliuya and the candidate for mountain guide Juan Carlos Lliuya Espinoza, both from Huaraz city.

To realize this expedition, it was necessary to looked for economical and logistic support. This was provided by: mountain guides association of Peru, gyula inn hostel, galaxia expeditions, mount climb as well as our close friends and colleagues. Thanks to this support we began to organize the second expedition to climb Alpamayo and Quitaraju mountains, at the same time.


On September 4, the support group departed from Huaraz to cashapampa, and from cashapampa to base camp one, wich is over 5200 meters on the glacier, the third day our support group made the preparation of the French- Basque ascend route of alpamayo. while my colleague Juan Carlos Lliuya Espinoza and I Milla Lliuya Daniel, departed from huaraz in September 5 to cashapampa, the day after we left at 8 in the morning to the base camp one, we started ascending to quitaraju mountain through the north face at 8:30 in the night reaching the summit at 11:30 in the night , after we descended through the normal route, that night was quite windy and the temperature dropped 20 degree Celsius below freezing; only we have had some minutes to drink a few sips of water and continued the Alpamayo ascent , here my partner and me were very tired, but happy to achieve our goal. When I started the first steps i felt that the snow was loose of 40-50 cm, 40 meters after we arrived to the “bergschrund” and we started to climbed the wall, using 6 long of 60 yards to reach the top. When I checked my watch was 7:30 in the morning

To realize this expedition, it was necessary to looked for economical and logistic support. This was provided by: mountain guides association of Peru, gyula inn hostel, galaxia expeditions, mount climb as well as our close friends and colleagues. Thanks to this support we began to organize the second expedition to climb Alpamayo and Quitaraju mountains, at the same time.


On September 4, the support group departed from Huaraz to cashapampa, and from cashapampa to base camp one, wich is over 5200 meters on the glacier, the third day our support group made the preparation of the French- Basque ascend route of alpamayo. while my colleague Juan Carlos Lliuya Espinoza and I Milla Lliuya Daniel, departed from huaraz in September 5 to cashapampa, the day after we left at 8 in the morning to the base camp one, we started ascending to quitaraju mountain through the north face at 8:30 in the night reaching the summit at 11:30 in the night , after we descended through the normal route, that night was quite windy and the temperature dropped 20 degree Celsius below freezing; only we have had some minutes to drink a few sips of water and continued the Alpamayo ascent , here my partner and me were very tired, but happy to achieve our goal. When I started the first steps i felt that the snow was loose of 40-50 cm, 40 meters after we arrived to the “bergschrund” and we started to climbed the wall, using 6 long of 60 yards to reach the top. When I checked my watch was 7:30 in the morning

We had already achieved 90% of our goal, then we descended to the base camp “I” and after to cashapampa, the clock showed 5.16 ’55 ” hours making a total rise time these two mountains of 32.16 ’55” hours. The joy at having succeeded our challenge was an awesome feeling. Again, a special thanks to the agencies mentioned above, especially the mountain guides association of Peru (AGMP) and support staff who formed it.


            

SOURCE: DANIEL MILLA LLIUYA